T-slot extrusions used to be a bit mysterious, but now they are very common due to their use in many 3D printers. However, it is one thing to assemble the kit with some extrusions, and another to design your own work with materials. If you had Play-Doh Fun Factory when you were a kid, then you know squeeze. You push some material through a mold to form a shape. Of course, aluminum profiles are not made of modeling clay, but are usually made of 6105-T5 aluminum. Strangely, there seems to be no official standard, but it is so common that there is usually not much difference between different vendors.
We use extrusions to create frames for 3D printers, laser cutters, and CNC machines. But you can use it wherever you need a strong and versatile frame. It seems that many people use them, for example, to build custom installations in trucks. If you need custom workbenches, lamps, or even picture frames, you can use extrusions to build anything you like.
Of course, if you are convenient enough, you can build all these things without resorting to aluminum extrusion. After all, it is not difficult to build a box out of wood or even aluminum. However, cheaply stocked aluminum is both strong and convenient. Generally speaking, you only need a method of cutting and extruding squares (or, buying the length you want) and a method of drilling holes in relatively soft aluminum. In some cases, you may want to drill some holes-either already existing or just drilled.
However, what you need are many special parts. There are brackets and special nuts and various accessories. You can think of it as something similar to an adult erector suit. One thing that makes extrusion work easier is that you can in many cases only 3D print the brackets you need instead of buying exotic brackets or having to store many different items. A good example is how all the brackets and fixing parts described by Roger Cheng in his guide how to make anything with aluminum extrusions and 3D printed brackets.
Not just a squeeze, but they all have some common characteristics. Generally speaking, the extrusion will look like a square or a rectangle. The most basic extrusion is square, with a central hole and one or more T-slots for connecting things. If you are making something that you want to be attractive, you may not want T-slots on all sides, but usually, when using a 3D printer or other machine, you will have a slot on all sides.
Some extrusions are metric, some are measured in inches. The square contour is usually called a 20×20 contour (20 mm on each side) by its measured value.
More complex extrusions usually repeat the pattern, so a 40×20 extrusion looks like two 20×20 extrusions connected together. Of course, they are not made that way-this is a solid squeeze, they are squeezed out like Play-Doh, this is a fascinating story that Dan Maloney invested in last year. However, there are other extruded shapes, such as a shape with a radius or a triangular shape for special purposes.
You need to do two things: connect the extrusions firmly and fix things on the extrusions. For example, if you are making a table, you need to build a frame to hold a table with four legs. You can attach the laminate table top to the frame and place the leveling feet on your legs. Of course, you can be more fanatical as [Evan] and [Katelyn] did in the video below.
In many cases, attaching accessories such as feet or brackets to extrusions has a lot in common with the way multiple extrusions are connected together, so let's discuss it first. The trick is to use special nuts suitable for T-slots. You have many options. If the square nuts are thin enough, they can slide into the grooves. When you screw the bolt into the nut, you can place a tension spring on the nut to hold it in place. However, usually, people just screw on the bolts and slide the whole thing into the slot.
The disadvantage of this is that you must be able to access the open end of the slot. If you want to add something between the other two nuts, or if the slot is blocked by the bracket, you must take everything apart to put the new nut in. This is a kind of preset nut, and they also make the rectangular nut called the T nut for the same purpose.
For example, if you want to fix a stepper motor bracket with two mounting holes to your frame, you can insert nuts or screw them loosely on the bolts inserted into the bracket, and then slide them into the slots. When the component is in the correct position, just tighten the bolts.
The only tricky part is the bolt length to be used. You need a bolt that will go through the bracket and into the nut without coming out of the other side and touching the extrusion. If the bracket is 10 mm thick and the nut is 6 mm thick, you can use 15 mm long bolts to leave a margin of 1 mm. If the bolt is too short, the joint will be weak.
If you need to add something in the middle of the extrusion that cannot enter the T-slot entrance, you will need a special T-nut. These are the least secure accessories, but they are usually good enough. These nuts have an oval shape, so when they are rotated 90 degrees, they will get stuck in the groove. There are also nuts with springs or fixing screws, so you can put them into the groove at an angle, and then rotate the long side to compress the spring to get the nut out of the groove. When you loosen it, the spring pushes the nut into the edge of the slot, locking it in place. These are sometimes called plug-in or roll-in nuts.
You can also get T-head bolts, where the head of the bolt is installed in a groove instead of a nut. These look like T-nuts, but have a bolt instead of a threaded hole. They also manufacture T-nuts with multiple threaded holes. For example, the angle bracket-which we will talk about later-may have 3 holes every 20 mm, and there will be a corresponding nut with 3 equally spaced holes. Of course, you can always use only three common nuts.
You can use T-nuts and bolts to connect stepper motor brackets or cabinet slide rails. But you can also connect the bracket to two or more extrusions to connect them together. Of course, they make these brackets out of aluminum, steel or polymers, but you can also 3D print them. However, you need to be careful. Normally, the brace only constrains the stretch in two dimensions, so you need to use the second method to over-constrain the joints.
Most parentheses are exactly what you think-they are shaped like an L or T or a plus sign, but there is a dizzying array of options. There are also corner connectors for making boxes with XYZ configuration. However, you can also get an inner bracket that looks like two L-shaped T-nuts. A fixing screw secures each leg of L in place. Some have slanted fixing screws to help align the connection. In this case, you must use a different type of internal connector according to the orientation of the connector. You will usually use them in pairs to hold the sides of the extrusion, although this is not always necessary. You can see a simple internal connector example in the video below.
Sometimes you just want to connect two extrusions end-to-end. Linear connectors can do this. It is just a metal strip that fits into the slot and has several holes for fixing screws. You can also get a stand that allows you to put a piece of extrusion as a diagonal support for added strength.
There is also a simple way to connect two extrusions without using a bracket. However, this is more work, but with fewer parts. Suppose you want to connect extrusions A and B at right angles. Your first step is to tap the center hole (or holes) in extrusion A. Then drill an ordinary hole large enough in the extrusion B to pass the hex wrench of the bolt through the hole. You screw the bolt into the threaded hole, but before tightening, slide the bolt head into the T-slot of B. The holes in B are positioned so that you can finish tightening the bolts.
You can get many things to use with extrusions from the same place you bought them. There are covers, feet and casters. You can get a spring that can hold acrylic and other plates in the T-slot. There are wheels, doors, handles and hinges that can be fitted into T-slots.
If you browse any 3D printing website like Thingiverse, you will find many designs for bobbin holders, filament guides, tool holders and lamps, which can be used as friction fits or installed in T-slot nuts. Remember, if you want to add something later and need screws, you may need some kind of embedded nut.
The cheapest way to buy extrusion is to cut it in any length you can get—usually leftovers—and cut into the size you want. If you cut it yourself, you need to make sure to make a clean and square cut so that when you connect them together, the extrudate is square. Of course, you will want to use metal cutting blades.
However, if you buy new extrusions, you can usually cut them very precisely to any size you need. This can also reduce expensive shipping costs for long pieces that you will cut anyway. In addition to cutting, you can usually get materials of different colors or metal alloys. If you don't want to do it yourself, you can also request to tap holes at one or both ends.
There are many places to buy extrusions and related items. Misumi is a common choice like 8020. Large suppliers like Grainger, Fastenal, and McMaster-Carr have many of these things, but they are usually very expensive.
You can 3D print many brackets (including the best brackets in the world) and accessories, and if you want to model, you can even 3D print extrusions, although you need very strict printing tolerances. There are many designs of plastic T-nuts that use ordinary nuts for threading and a large number of brackets of various descriptions.
However, there are a few things to be aware of. First, use common sense. Plastic brackets and extrusions will not be as strong as metal brackets and extrusions, although we have seen people take this idea too far. In addition, not all extrusions are exactly the same, so a nut design that fits the X brand may not fit the nut you have. As with 3D printing, you need to make adjustments and adjustments.
If you want to be interested in your design, you can even use 3D printed brackets to make cheap nuts. Either way, if you are building a table, a machine, a robot, or almost anything you can imagine, aluminum extrusions are a good thing in your toolbox.
Nice summary; thank you! Can we compare and contrast extrusions and channel pillars? (One thing in my house Frankenstein is made of metric extrusions and imperial channel struts...) DIN rails do not overlap directly in use, but they can also be compared well or connected to adapters On other rails.
"Adult erection kit" sounds interesting, but it is likely that I missed some cultural background :-)
It is more like an "installation kit" rather than a kit. This is/was a toy for children to build things. It is made of metal, and you connect the ends with nuts and bolts. Some devices have motors, and you can make cars and other mobile things. This is Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erector_Set
In the United States, until the 1970s, every boy with a mechanical tendency had at least one erector suit as a Christmas or birthday gift. In the late 70s, it was not common for Lego to take over and play with erectors, at least near me.
https://www.toyhalloffame.org/toys/erector-set
In many countries/regions, these or similar collections/systems seem to have different names: http://www.osnl.co.uk/
Get there: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=relation märklin erector meccano
Known as Meccano in the UK. Many lads know the pain of stepping on a square nut. Lego also took the baton.
The erection kit and Meccano are competing products. Meccano (I remember) is made of steel, each size has its own color, while Erector is all aluminum. I did it when I was a kid, and I (somewhat) grew up in the 50s and 60s
Listen to your young whip snapper!
My erection device components are all made of steel, and we love it!
In Germany, this is Märklin Metallbau.
We have fishertechnik, oh boy, just checked and they still exist: https://www.fischertechnik.de/en/
Oh, that thing is called "Merkur" abroad. Because there is basically nothing in the socialist era, and because this kind of thing is available (and very common), many people are using it to make useful things. Including scientific instruments-probably one of the most famous people in this field https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Otto_Wichterle
In France, it is named "Meccano"™(r)(c)
I only use them for one project, a kit 3d printer (like everyone else). But I like how it is solved! The best part is that the extrusion provides most of the linear actuators, so it is very convenient for the 3 identical axes of the delta printer. The kit comes with a bunch of T-nuts that I like, but apparently the printer has never seen any specific mechanical load. Really, where most extrusions get stuck in the holes on the PLA bracket, friction can hold them in place very well.
On the one hand, I cannot use T-nuts...I have to use M2.5 screws, and M2.5 nuts do not engage at all. So I made one myself, cut a penny into a rectangle, and fixed it with M2.5 nuts.
I did come up with a novel hacker that I am very satisfied with. I want to lay wires in some slots, but I can't use cable ties to fix it in place like you often see because it has a truck for linear actuators that can be rolled on. I used to use masking tape, but after only a year it started to peel off and the wires suddenly popped out and rubbed on the truck. So, as an exercise in printing the smallest details, I made some small things that you can slide in the slot and then twist with needle-nose pliers to lock it in place. This is the most cumbersome thing... These parts are almost worthless mechanically. But I put dozens of them in the printer in 2015, and they just stayed in place.
http://galexander.org/x/extfast.jpg
We have used 8020 for many projects here. My favorite is the slide rail system, which allows my overhead robot camera system to read newspapers and websites on tablet computers for our various programs. Since the configuration of the largest studio will vary with the recorded program, the cameras must be used in multiple locations. The system we designed allows it to be used in a 10×6 area, which contains the main stage of most programs.
8020 is great. For home use, knock-out squeeze can work normally.
You should also mention Kindorf/Unistrut. That was the first time I used linear guides to build such a project.
I used to work in a candle factory. Almost all of our guards are made of 80/20. The beauty of these things is that it is about 1/4 inch in the groove. Make a box to cover the machine, then cut the plexiglass/polycarbonate sheet to fit the box and quickly shape it. You have a guard to prevent your hands from touching the machine. https://www.slideshare.net/knottsco/8020-guarding-flipbook. Some good examples in the link. We also made custom machines with amazing extrusions. Custom drill bits used to drill holes in three wick block candles, etc. a good job.
I have been thinking, when I can build it with wood, why should I spend money (buy a computer desk) to build it with extrusion. With current timber prices, this is likely to be a better way to develop across the board.
Isn't it crazy? Guess the tree can't keep up. In any case, metal extrusion is used in commercial construction. Put things up quickly.
I buy T-slots at a local scrap yard at the price of aluminum scrap-usually about $1-2 per pound. No, I can't pick-I have to accept any size they have, but I don't build things from someone else's BOM anyway. I usually find that it's best to get the main components first, and then measure, model, and design around them.
I prefer to bolt the T-slots together directly, usually skipping the L-shaped brackets and plates. This requires a square cutting end, but I can use a Milwaukee Makerspace milling machine, so it is not a problem for me. I have seen many printers made with 20mm T-slots, and then all corners are filled with L-shaped brackets and plates, trying to strengthen the frame, but these additional components cannot prevent the beam from bending. People really should use larger cross-section T-slots. The extra stiffness will eliminate the need for most brackets and plates. I suspect that the cost of the larger t-slot is lower than the cost of the smaller stuff plus all the additional hardware.
Square aluminum tubes are harder than T-slots of the same size, so unless you have special requirements for T-slots, most designs may use square tubes.
I assume your scrapyard is in the Milwaukee area, not the Madison area, right? I have been here for a few years, but I still don’t have a preferred scrapyard, metal supply, etc...
Slotted extrusion has a very important disadvantage, that is, the design to avoid torsional deformation of the structure. U-slots, round and rectangular tubes are generally cheaper, but they are physically heavier. Personally, I prefer mild steel rectangular tubes, because using welders to fix something together can save a lot of fasteners and assembly time. I don't think I have actually seen a slotted extruded product that has no strange bends or twists when it leaves the factory. If I remember correctly, this is because most of the slotted channels are straightened at the end of production before cutting. Frankly speaking, a linear guide based on this type of product sounds like a sledgehammer with noodles. I can't see how these can maintain dimensional tolerances for a long time. Note that this is not incredible, but considering most designers' expectations of this scale, it seems quite subtle. ;-)
I am a fan of Makerbea, which is a 10mm T-slot extrusion system. It is very suitable for smaller projects, and I used it to build a custom stand for my water-cooled PC.
No one mentioned that flatness and rectangularity are not both accurate.
Yes, it should be noted that the dimensional accuracy of extrusions is not well known. Better systems such as the 8020 list their tolerances in their specifications. The extrusion is also prone to bending and warping. In addition, most supplier cuts are usually only within 1/16 of an inch. In addition, aluminum has a large thermal expansion coefficient. All this means that their system is not as suitable for manufacturing precision CNC machines as many people think. Good design is required to minimize thermal effects, and careful assembly is required to maintain squareness. Without a platform, an altimeter, and a suitable reference block, it is difficult to do a good job. You may need to sacrificial anodizing to get a flat surface.
Great, I want to talk about the extrusion product I recently purchased. I bought 80/20 20 series T-slots. a lot of. The problem is that the 80/20 20 series is different from the actual 20×20 extrusion. The slot is only 5.25 mm wide, and everything on Amazon has a 6 mm wide slot. Almost everything on thingiverse is suitable for 6mm slots.
Better than other ways. Adding materials is more difficult than subtracting.
I want to emphasize that you can not only cut these extruded parts to the right size. But you can also use laser cutting steel parts where needed.
Although most Lego now builds specific things in the form of kits, the real purpose of Lego is to have a bathtub of 2000-3000 pieces and build your own design according to your ideas. Same as erection/Mecano.
So, where can I buy dozens of similar extruded parts with countless connectors, boards, etc.? Ideally used with stepper motors, timing belts, gears of different sizes, etc. Professional upgrade from Erector/Meccano for building functional prototypes.
I searched Google for the "Mechanical Engineering Starter Set" variant, but found nothing but cheap toys.
MakerBeam is mentioned above. Maybe it's RatRig? Perhaps there is such an opportunity in the market-a larger mechanical engineering installer. Although the price tag can be very steep.
I had a Vex robot kit many years ago. I don’t use it much, but I like to collect larger motors, linear actuators, and batteries and build things with them. Perhaps because this kit is very limited on a larger scale, in this case, the motor must have the right power/weight/shape to fit the project.
It sounds like a Kickstarter, right there. "Answers to Fischertechnik in 2020"
In 2012, just before starting the Smoothie project, I was a contributor to the contraptor project (contraptor.org).
Contraptor is a very cool project, if you don't know it, you should check it out. This is Meccano(tm) for adults.
I am working on its metric version (20 mm instead of 1 inch as a grid). Not only structural materials, but also linear bearings.
I designed a profile with holes (such as contraptor) and a T-slot. One side of corner one is 20 mm, 2 mm thick, with holes every 20 mm at a distance of 5 mm from the boundary, with a diameter of 5.2 mm. The T-slot is almost a clone of Misumi 2020, just redrawn from scratch.
I have found some aluminum extrusion products all over the world (France, Poland, India, China), and I am committed to obtaining prices and samples.
Places in Europe are too expensive. India is a bit more expensive than China, but I happen to have someone who can help us communicate with Indians, so I try to get samples from India. The samples I got are absolutely terrible. *All* dimensions exceed (very clearly defined) specifications. One side is 22 mm (21.9) instead of 20 plus or minus 0.1.
When I complained, well, and asked for a second sample, I was subjected to a vicious insult that I had never experienced in business before or in the future. For example, suddenly say bad things about my mother, belittle me and so on.
This guy did not serve his country. Since then, I have never done *any* business with India, not once (and have done business with China hundreds of times). Unless someone tells me otherwise, I think India is a lawless wasteland with terrible people everywhere. I recently talked to someone who wanted to resell Smoothieboards in India, but this experience has always been in my mind...
The full sample price in India cost me as much as *DIE* in China (it would have cost me, but it will be free in the end, see below), which is not a trivial cost to me.
Then I went to China.
Incredible communication and service, best price, *free* sample (they happen to have a mold very close to what I want, I switched to that shape/mold, but the price of the sample/mold is also good if I had to use my own profile design and did not (re)use theirs).
I made nearly a ton of profiles and shipped them to my place. It was an adventure. This was the first time I learned to use containers for international transportation. This experience will be useful when I start selling laser cutting machines and CNC milling machines driven by Smoothieboard.
Over the past few years, I have sold a lot around Reprap, Contraptor, and the open source hardware community.
I still have a few hundred kilograms of configuration files in a storage place/things around.
Interesting adventure in the open hardware field.
I go to aluminum extrusion profiles https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/vidga-triple-curtain-rail-white-20299155/
I picked up the bed frame left by the corner railway.
It looks like it will be flexible rather than straight. What are its disadvantages? What do you use it for (cnc?). The price is good.
The final build is a customized closed corexy 3d printer with a build volume of 370x370x370mm
I found that the extrusions themselves are quite cheap, but the prices of all brackets, special nuts, and connectors are absolutely stupid. The company wants you to buy a box of 1,000 or charge you $5 per nut, or buy a box and charge you every For $5 per nut, local suppliers are only interested in selling to companies that basically buy the entire catalog immediately when installing a factory or new production line.
What I get at the local scrapyard usually comes with a lot of hardware. In fact, I often have to disassemble these things myself and buy as much of the usually expensive hardware as possible at scrap prices, while I am buying T-slots at scrap aluminum prices. I get brackets, plates, T-nuts and screws, hinges, door handles, feet, etc. Of course, I usually need to spend some time cleaning up these things.
Even if you have to buy a new one, a T-slot with a larger cross-section usually does not cost more than a smaller one, and is harder, without people having to buy a lot of additional hardware to try to harden a smaller t-slot.
The 40×40 t slot usually has an 8 mm slot, which can be used with 5/16 inch carriage bolts.
Square/rectangular tubes are cheaper, lighter and harder than T-slots of the same size. T-slots are very useful if you need to bolt something and do a lot of experimentation or plan to take it apart to reuse parts. If you are building disposable rectangular pipes, it is the best choice. You can use cheap self-tapping screws or sheet metal screws to fix things. The tube can be connected with 3D printed corners and/or metal plates and screws, just like using expensive T-nuts and screws to connect T-slots.
This is a method, but for the right work, you can't go to the trash can to dive-at least reliably.
I have been using 30×30 and 40×40, 40×120 things, but you still need a lot of connectors to make them work. End caps, plate gussets... When the cost of each corner bracket is 10 dollars and you need to use three for each corner of a box, it is already 240 dollars. The L-shaped bracket for fixing the top table and the bottom frame, 8 x 18 dollars is 144 dollars, plus the extrusion itself, plus special nuts and bolts... Soon you will have a "simple frame" for 1,000 dollars The list of materials should have been cheap and easy to build.
All of these things end up weighing about 500 pounds, so you can forget to turn it on casters. In retrospect, we should use steel pipes and metal plates to simply weld things together, but the plan passed down was to "make this a reality."
lucky! What kind of industries in your area will squeeze? ! Just curious
The kind that closes the shop.
Some extruded component manufacturers have CAD software in which you can design and visualize structures. When you finish the design, the software will spit out the BOM and quotation, and you can also order and pay when you are ready. For example, Rexroth (I am not an affiliate) offers MTpro, which seems to be available for download for free. When I clicked to download, they just provided me with the 5.6GB mtprosetup5000_x64.ZIP file, it didn't ask me to provide anything, or even my email address. (That adjustment may be later. Sorry, I don’t have time for a test drive right now.)
Warning: Using design software from a specific manufacturer can sometimes lead to proprietary components, which can lead to manufacturer/supplier lock-in, if this bothers you.
Here are a few links to MTpro examples:
https://www.boschrexroth.com/en/xc/products/product-groups/assembly-technology/topics/engineering-software-mtpro/index
* How to build anything with aluminum extrusions (Bosch Rexroth)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJIChIs4g6A
I work at item24, they are the founders of aluminum extrusion profiles. Therefore, we say that your idea is worthwhile. With our extensive package, there are many possibilities. For example, check our engineering tools, anyone can draw for free.
https://item.engineering/DEde/tools/engineeringtool
If you need more information, I'm happy to help you.
This is an idea: change your name. An online search for a part named "item" is as futile as a Google search for "A".
@Jeffery, that online build tool looks very interesting, thank you. However, I suggest that everyone should start here:
https://www.item24.de/en/homepage.html
Then first select your language (en/fr/de) in the upper right corner.
I would love to find a design software that is not locked to a specific supplier, but it is still free.
Choose any CAD package and import the model.
Yes, but this method has many loopholes. You need to import a large number of models for rails, connection fasteners, etc. Then there needs to be a set of rules to explain what is what. Then there is the layer to build the BOM.
Why can't you spell and pronounce the word correctly? aluminum.
Did you mean "pronounce"? In American English, "aluminum" is a generally accepted way to spell and pronounce "aluminium".
When you lean in front of that windmill, continue to modify the remaining elements: molybdenum, lanthanum, tantalum, and platinum. I would love to see IUPAC's response to your proposal.
What is the best source in France/Europe?
Motedis has good hardware, good prices, poor customer support (edge offensive, if you contact them for any reason, you are insulting them).
Some changes have taken place in Motedis, and now they are even active on the maker forum (in French).
Otherwise, RS will carry some, and since they are shipped for free on weekend orders, it offsets the high upfront price.
https://www.item24.de/en/homepage.html
item24 has companies throughout Europe, and I believe they can help you. If I can help you, please contact me.
I have tried to get anything from Item24.
Between broken links, missing specifications, and the whole b2b atmosphere, I was unsuccessful. Just went with Motedis.
I didn't realize aluminum extrusions (aka profiles) until someone recently published the construction of arcade joysticks on Reddit. They use extrusions on the frame and laser-cut acrylic on the top and bottom. It works very well. As we all know, the shells of arcade joysticks are difficult to make, and high-quality shells sell for up to 90 euros, so this is an important new method for the enthusiast community. I am a little obsessed now haha
In the past, we used Bosch extrusions to make frames to hang things in an industrial environment. We used 45×45 and 45×90 mm sizes. I never noticed any noticeable twists or bends in them. They look straight and square when delivered. I think 45×90 is aluminum 2x4s. We mainly use cast gussets to connect them, and connect them with T-bolts and nuts.
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